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What to Do in Istanbul

Istanbul Forests in Autumn: Where to See Fall Colors

Where to see Istanbul forests in autumn: Belgrad Forest, Aydos, the Atatürk Arboretum and more, with real trails, fees and the peak-color window.

Autumn forest in Istanbul with golden and amber foliage

Here is the short answer for anyone planning a fall walk: the best stretch for color in Istanbul’s forests runs from mid-October into the first half of November, and the easiest payoff for the least effort is Belgrad Forest. If you want the postcard version, the Atatürk Arboretum next door is the most concentrated patch of autumn color in the whole city. Everything below is the longer version, with the trails, fees and seasonal tips I actually give friends who visit in October.

What surprises most first-time visitors is how much real forest sits inside the municipal boundary. You do not need to leave the city for amber leaves and that damp, earthy smell after rain. Istanbul has woodland on both the European and Asian sides, most of it reachable on public transport, and autumn is when it all comes alive in copper, rust and gold.

When do the leaves actually peak in Istanbul?

Plan around the second half of October if you can. Daytime temperatures in October usually sit around 15 to 20°C, which is comfortable hiking weather, and the foliage is at its best. By November the air cools toward 10°C and the leaves start coming down fast, so the carpet underfoot gets thicker while the canopy thins out. Both stages look good, just different. Weekdays are calmer; weekends fill up with families and barbecue smoke, especially in Belgrad Forest. For a wider read on the season, our guide to the seasons in Istanbul and the best time to visit Istanbul both back this up.

Autumn forest in Istanbul with golden and amber foliage

Belgrad Forest: the easy classic

If you only have time for one forest, make it this one. Belgrad Forest sits in the Sarıyer district on the European side, and it was the city’s main freshwater source back in Byzantine and Ottoman times, which is why you still find old dams and water channels scattered through the trees. Now it is woodland with marked walking paths, picnic clearings, a couple of cafés and the kind of flat, well-kept loops that suit anyone, not just hikers.

The walk people come for is the Neşet Suyolu trail, a roughly 6.4 km loop that circles a reservoir. It is mostly flat and easy, popular with joggers and families, and in autumn the path turns into an orange carpet of fallen leaves. Coming on foot or by bike is free. If you drive in, there is a small vehicle charge (at the time of writing, around 10 lira). For the full breakdown of routes and picnic spots, see our dedicated piece on Belgrad Forest and the longer list of activities in Belgrade Forest.

Atatürk Arboretum: the most photogenic patch of all

This is my honest first pick for pure color. The Atatürk Arboretum is a 296-hectare living botanical collection on the edge of Belgrad Forest near Bahçeköy, and because the trees are planted and curated, the autumn display is dense and deliberate rather than random. Japanese maples, oaks, liquidambars and conifers all turn at slightly different times, so you get layered reds and golds reflected in the ponds.

A few practical notes, because the Arboretum runs on stricter rules than a normal park. It is open daily except Monday, roughly 08:30 to 17:00, though hours shift with the season so check before you go. Admission at the time of writing is around 42 lira for adults and 18 for students, payable on arrival or online. No food or drink beyond water, no pets, no drones, no tripods, no bicycles. It is a place to walk slowly and look, which in late October is exactly what you want to do anyway.

Aydos Forest: the Asian-side hike with a castle view

Cross to the Asian side and Aydos Forest, on the edge of the Kartal district, is the one I send people who want a proper climb. Aydos Hill tops out at 537 meters, the highest point in Istanbul, and the hike up is short but genuinely steep. The reward is a panorama over the whole city, best at sunrise or sunset when the sky does its thing behind the ridgelines. Near the summit sit the ruins of Aydos Castle, a Byzantine-era fortress; entry is free and you can wander the old walls.

Down below, Aydos Lake is a gentler option, about a five-kilometre nature walk from the trailhead, with picnic spots and non-motorised water craft like pedalos and canoes in season. The whole forest covers thousands of acres, so you can spend a full day moving between the lake, the woods and the hilltop. If you are exploring this half of the city, our Asian side of Istanbul guide pairs well with a day out here.

Büyük Çamlıca Grove: high views and migrating birds

Also on the Asian side, in Üsküdar, the Büyük Çamlıca Grove sits on one of Istanbul’s highest hills. The draw is the elevated skyline view over the Bosphorus, plus the historic mansions and gardens scattered around the grove. In autumn it doubles as a stopover for migrating birds heading south, so bring something to look through if you are into birdwatching. It is an easy, low-effort visit that rewards you with a big view, which makes it a good pairing with a heavier hike elsewhere in the day.

Kemerburgaz Urban Forest and the Mağlova Aqueduct

Back on the European side near Göktürk, Kemerburgaz Urban Forest is the active, family-friendly choice: long walking and cycling paths, sports fields, playgrounds, cafés. What sets it apart in autumn is the backdrop. From parts of the forest you can see the Mağlova Aqueduct, built by the master Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan between 1554 and 1562 over the Alibey Stream. With its triangular piers and stacked arches it is considered one of the great works of water architecture anywhere, and it still carries water today. Stone arches against turning leaves is a hard view to beat. The neighbouring Göktürk pond area, full of oak and hornbeam, turns especially well in October.

A few smaller forests worth knowing

Istanbul does not run short of green. The Atatürk Urban Forest gives you walking routes and ponds in a central location, good for a quick fix without a long journey. The Kaymakdonduran Forest on the Asian side is local and quiet, with picnic areas and trekking routes. None of these are big productions, but they are the kind of places residents slip away to on a free morning. If you want the full inventory, our roundup of the best parks and forests in Istanbul and the wider look at Istanbul’s green side cover the rest.

How to plan your autumn forest day

A few things I have learned the hard way. Go on a weekday if your schedule allows, because the popular forests get loud at weekends. Wear shoes that can handle wet leaves and mud, since the trails hold moisture once the rains start in October. Bring water and a snack for the forests that allow food (just remember the Arboretum does not). Most of these spots are reachable by bus or metro plus a short connection, so you do not need a car, though Aydos and Kemerburgaz are smoother with one. And give yourself enough daylight: the light goes earlier in autumn, and the best color shows up in the low, slanted afternoon sun.

If you would rather mix forest air with something more urban, a hilltop like Pierre Loti Hill gives you trees, tea and a Golden Horn view in one stop. However you build the day, the forests are the part of autumn Istanbul that most visitors miss, and they are right there inside the city, waiting for the first cold snap to turn the canopy.